okay, it's a sunny day and small surf. I want to paddle out to stay strong and prepare myself for the conplex surgery ahead (It was delayed).
So what do I see at the peak, clogging the surf break with ten people, Ed Guzman's surf class instructors and their students on foam boards. They could be anywhere else, like on a beach break. but no, these instructors bring them out fo prime spots because they can rapidly rotate their classes.
Now for Fred going to the dark side.
An instructor and his student take off on a wave, and the instructor blocks me out from getting in the wave.
"You're a fuckhead," I said. "That's nice. Push people into waves. How much did you make on that wave? $75?"
Now all the three instructors sarcastically gang up on me saying, "Why can't you have fun. We're having fun.
I said, "Of course you're having fun, you're making money at the expense of someone else's enjoyment. So of course you're having a good time because you're out here making money."
"Go to second peak."
"Hey, this is my surf spot, I like surfing here. I've been surfing here a long time and I never charged anybody to make money."
"why did you swear at me?"
"Because it was my turn to catch a wave, and you didn't wait your turn."
"Hey, you don't care about anybody or anything. You guys could take these people anywhere, but you've clogged the lineup at Cowells and so you come out here to make even more money. You're greedy. That's all you are."
"Well how are people going to learn without surf classes?"
"They paddle out and develop relationships and connect with others and learn the etiquette and proper behavior And you dont' care abot these people either. You would be out here surfing with them unless they paid you. You're all about the money, that's all you see.""
"It's 2016 no0t 1980."
"Yeah, and you're saying 2016 is good because it benefits everything you want and nothing I want."
"I surf when there are good waves."
"You don;t surf here, You take the money you earned here and go surf somewhere else because you've ruined this spot."
"We're out here having a good time what's wrong with you?"
"You don't care about me. I'm just a paper clip on your desk. I'm the one in the way because I'm stopping you from making money."
"Here's a wave you can take it."
"I don't want to take anything you're giving me. I don't want it. I don't want it."
I paddled away from them. I had fired all my bullets, and that wasn't why I came out. I came out top get strong to fight against cancer and my operation.So I sat out here, then paddled back and forth and ignored them until they left in about 20 minutes. So I kept paddling and enjoying the sun and just trying to get back to fighting the cancer inside me--not the cancer outside me.